Thailand to Hong Kong

Ko Tao to Ko Sumui, Thailand Day 64 (April 4)

Unfortunately, we are out of time in Thailand. We really want to stay another week in Kao Tao and do some fun dives. However, our trip is planned four days over our 30 day visas, and we are going to have to pay fines. We weight a bunch of different options; visa run to Burma, round trip to Malaysia. None of the options make sense to spend an extra week, so we take the ferry to Ko Samui, and stay in Big Budda beach near the Ko Samui airport. The landing planes shake our bungalow pretty good.

A special thanks to the people of Thailand for being so helpful, friendly, and fun. Thailand is the best country that we ever visited.
Kevin says; khorb koon khrab
Vana says; khorb koon ka

we LOVE Thailand!

Even their airport have a theme park experience!

Ko Sumui to Hong Kong by plane, China Day 65 (April 5)

South East Asia Map. Thailand to HongKong (2 hr flight)

We arrive with no trouble and book an expensive but convenient hotel from the airport booking service. It amazing that you can get from the Airport to the Hotel without a breath of fresh air. Actually, you can get most places this way; as the airport, subways, trains, ferries, malls, and buildings are mostly connected by indoor, or covered walkways. As far as big metropolis cities go, Hong Kong is probably the best city in the world. The infrastructure here makes any US city look like a joke. People move through the Hong Kong as smooth as wind and water; as feng shui gurus are consulted before constructing any building.

We are staying at the Kowloon Hotel in Kowloon. In the evening, we walk to Victory Harbour and catch the evening light show, with neon and laser lights flashing from the buildings across the sound on Kong Kong Island. The waterfront show makes me think of Shanghai and Singapore; who wins the competition for slickest waterfront?

It’s all about efficiency and convenience here.

fast and comfortable train ride

Clean train

the bed is so comfortable. I couldn’t help it!

Hong Kong at last

much like NY, but more clean, efficient, and convienent.

Clean subway

music light show at Victory Harbour

Vana: kevin and I have both been to Hong Kong (HK) before and love it. I was here when I was a kid. HK was my stopping point before flying to the US for the first time. When I got to HK, I loved it so much that I called my dad and asked if I can move to HK instead the US. Well…you know rest of the story.

Thailand – Ko Tao

Kao Lak to Chumphon by Bus, Thailand Day 60 (March 30)

Today we leave the western sea of Thailand, and cross the mainland to the Eastern sea. Oddly enough, the travel agents in town have no idea how to get to Ko Tao, because they don’t sell any service. We take a 7AM public bus to the next bus station north of Kao Lak, and then book another bus to Chumphon. Unfortunately, we don’t make the 1PM boat, so we stay the night in Chumphon Gardens Hotel in the downtown area. The hotel is a business traveler style; cheap, clean, includes everything, and seems the lap of luxury, coming from the beach area.

Southern Thailand Map

Chumphon to Ko Tao by boat, Thailand Day 60 (March 31)

Southern Thailand Map

We take the 7AM high speed catamaran and head to Big Blue Diving Resort, as recommended by Katie. After signing up, and looking around town, we decide we don’t like it. Their beach side rooms are full, and we don’t like the hotel up the road. We switch to our second choice; Ban’s Diving Resort.

Ban’s is a well lubed diving factory and certifies more divers than anywhere in the world. It’s a bit corporate, but we found it professional and efficient. Since they are not at capacity, they have great deals, and the classes are not packed to the max. You can get Open Water certification for $250, and get 4 nights free fan cooled room.

Kevin and Vana start the PADI Open Water scuba diving class at 5PM. Videos, books, and homework, oh my!

Studying for exams. Feels like college all over again.

Can’t complaint studying in an environment like this

Ko Tao, Thailand Day 61 (April 1)

Today is theory in the morning with an afternoon pool session. Since we have left over air, we do a quick dive offshore, and see reef and fish; just 50 yards offshore. We are familiar with a lot of the skills from our try dive in Belize, but there several new skills to learn.

pool session

Ko Tao, Thailand Day 62 (April 2)

Today, we take a 7:30AM boat and do two dives to 12m in the morning. The sun is out, and the dive is really clear, with no currents. We descend using the boats anchor line, so the students can easily control their descent rate and practice ear equalization. At the bottom, we practice the basic regulator purging, mask clearing, regulator recovery, and buoyancy. After swimming around and taking some photos, we surface to practice weight belt and full scuba equipment removal and replacement.

At 18 people, our group is very large, but we split into three groups of six people in the water. In the water, there is an instructor in the lead, and dive master at the rear of each group.

Our instructor is a Thai guy named Santi. At times, he is difficult to understand, but he is really cool, and every other sentence ends with a long “for sure…”. It is interesting to note that all the instructors and dive masters smoke. It seems they have an aversion to breathing normal air.

In the afternoon, we learn theory about decompression illness, and dive tables. Computing dive tables and pressure groups after lunch in prime napping hours, with our bodies filtering excess nitrogen is like third world torture (Vana: zzz…ZZZ…uh…what dive table?!).

Tank line up

Navigation instruction

Group descent

KR swim through

Mask clearing

Blowing kisses (my special skill)

Underwater yoga (buoyancy practice)

Alternate air source breathing (save your buddy)

Underwater smiles

Vana with our group, Santi in glasses

Ko Tao, Thailand Day 63 (April 3)

Today is our final two dives of the class, and the instructors don costumes for the dive film. Today we dive to our depth training of 18m. We start the first dive practicing a controlled emergency swimming accent from 6m; exhaling a continuous “ah…” from an endless supply of expanding air in our lungs. Then we free descend and practice more skills at the bottom.

we almost get crashed by another boat while setting up the line, no wonder most dive accidents happen on the surface

controlled emergency swimming accent

ahhhhhh……

While practicing full mask removal and replacement, the instructor tricks us out in dark aviators, which makes for some funny filming. Also, Santi pulls everyone up in a few seconds when a sea snake runs through our circle at the bottom. The local sea snake (same as we saw in the Similans) is the fourth most poisonous animal in the world; although not aggressive and not easy to get bitten from its small mouth.

underwater cop

sea snake

running under a student’s leg during skills

Divemaster packing heat, pulls a toy gun for self defense! (I laugh so hard almost ran out of oxygen)

In the evening, the entire group meets for dinner, and we watch the edited dive video set to music. I realize now that we are staying in a summer camp for young adults (everyone’s in their 20’s except KR. Everyone’s from Europe except us and another two Canadian guys).

One stamp for the dive logs, another for our forehead, means a free beer

dinner and watching DVD

Santi is wearing a batman outfit, and looks hilarious with his forearms crossed in defense while a giant trigger fish swims around him erratically, biting his fins. The trigger fish has a conical protection area for its nest when breading, and attacks the fins of any fish or diver, which enters its territory. In another funny moment, Santi snaps the top of a woman jumping from the boat during our dive break. The top ends up wrapped around in her face in the water.

Underwater Batman

I’ll show you who’s the boss here

The other group also has a funny video. During the dive briefing the British instructor goes through a straight faced elaborate description of how the students should spit in their fins to prevent blisters under the increased pressure at depth. The camera then cuts to students using their deepest lung butter to fill their fins during dive prep . The next clip shows the instructors shaking their heads; spitting in fins? That’s just disgusting; I knew something was wrong with this group!

what matters is – we had FUN while learning. Our class kick ass!

Everyone in the class gets their certification except for one student in the hospital from a motor bike accident; the most dangerous activity by far in Thailand. Supposedly, diving is even safer than sleeping under a coconut tree!

Thanks so much to Santi and all the staff at Ban’s Diving Resort. We really had a great time, and felt completely at home during our stay (party, beer, study at the same time. Just like the old days at UCSB). We really wish we could stay several more days, for sure…

More pics taken during our stay below.

Yippee! We are now certified divers!

Blue spotted ray, also caught on video

moray eel swimming

Even the youngsters get into it

Beach in front of Ban’s Diving Resort

Turtle on video during our final dive

Grouper hiding in a sponge. Great pic Vana!

Sand Lizard fish

Grouper hiding in coral flower

Pink Skunk Anemone fish

Coral

Gold-Saddle Rabbitfish

Fine-spotted porcupinefish

white sea worms all over the Barrel Sponge

Anemone Fish

Blue-ringed angelfish

Sea Star

Slingjaw wrasse

Hexagon Grouper

grumpy fish protect its hole

Red Rush Grouper- he love to watch us practice skills

oyster

Redcoat squirrelfish

Turtle munching on bubble coral

hotel dog welcome divers home

DJ party for April Fools

BBQ dreamin

Nightly entertainment – Fire Show on the beach

Sunset chill out

We love Ko Tao!

Click below to see more underwater pictures:

• Dive 1
• Dive 2
• Dive 3
• Dive 4

Thailand – Railey Beach

Ko Lanta Island to Railey Beach, Thailand Day 53 (March 23)

Ko Lanta is a difficult place to leave. We really wish we could chill for a few more days. Today, we take the ferry boat to Railey Beach.

Railay Beach is on the mainland, but is reached only by long tail boat due to the high limestone cliffs cutting off mainland access. The ferry stops offshore, and we load onto long tail boats for beach transport. We heard Railay was touristy, but we were surprised to find no luggage porters or agents touting hotel rooms. We stay at the Diamond Cave Resort on east Railay beach.

arriving Raliay West Beach with longtail boats

Raliay map

Vana has been in email contact with Katie whom we met in a cooking class in Vietnam. We plan to meet them for dinner tomorrow. On the way to our hotel, we run into another Katie whom we met in another cooking class in Chiang Mai. Vana suggests that they also join us. After finding that our cooking classmates from Vietnam and Chiang Mai are staying in the same hotel and room number, Vana realizes she has her Katie’s mixed up, and we have quite a good laugh. (Vana: I wasn’t embarrassed at all. This is what happen when you use emails rather than Facebook).

Hanging out with Katie and Amanda in their pool on the west side. Katie was a HR at a financial firm in NY. Amanda was in the media buying industry before both decided to quit and take a travel break in SE Asia. Amenda went back to the bay area last week. Katie decided to stay in Thailand teaching English for 6 months.

Railey Beach, Thailand Day 54 (March 24)

Today we rent a Kayak and paddle along the limestone cliffs and islands around Railey beach. The evening has intense rain, so we chill out in the East Side village.

It’s a beautiful morning. We decided to Kayak

Let’s go

View Point, white sand beach!

kayaking around the islands offshore

paddle along the limestone cliffs

millions of small schooling fish in the water. looks like sperms

Ao Pranang beach

blue bird

crab

kayaking between two islands

stalagmites cave

spotted a jellyfish in the water

colorful stalagmites

back to the beach

rain coming in

CLICK HERE to see more snorkeling pictures.

Railey Beach, Thailand Day 55 (March 25)

The main activity in Railay is climbing. The surrounding cliffs are a climber’s playground with hundreds of bolted routes. Vana wants to try and signs up for a beginner’s top rope climbing class. There isn’t much to the class, and in no time Vana is scaling a 50 foot vertical face. Most people on the wall are beginners, and the instructors on belay provide significant help. Vana looks like a pro in no time. When coming down Kevin yells “jump”!

getting ready at the climb shop

reaching for the top

No hands on the rope!

On the wall face

made it

coming down is easy

if you know how to jump

jumping down

Jeannette is the other girl in my group. She is from northern Germany. Her knees are still shaking!

CLICK HERE to see more climbing pictures.

In the evening, we are enjoying the pool at Katie’s resort, when out of nowhere we spot the other Katie and her husband strolling on the beach. After a visa run to Burma, and dive certification in Kao Tao, they’ve arrived in Railay as their last stop before going back to Mississippi. We tell them our funny Katie mix up story, and in the evening we all met on the east side for drinks, with all Katie’s present and accounted for.

Katie (from Chaing Mai) tells us about her bad luck with planes. On their flight from Laos, one of the props stopped right outside her window, and the captain announced an emergency landing in 10 mins. Over the next 40 minutes, the other passengers flip through magazines, while Katie is in a heavy breathing panic. No one told her that a plane can fly just fine with one engine. We’ll be thinking of you everytime we sit in the exit row!

Katie and her husband Blaine got married and decided to live-abroad. They moved to New Zealand for two years. But recently quit their job to travel in SE Asia for few months before moving back home. Katie is a traveling nurse and Blaine is a chemical engineer by day and puzzle solver by night.

Vana, Chiang Mai Katie, Amanda, Vietnam Katie. We had a girls night out after dinner.

Railay Beach to Kao Lak, Thailand Day 56 (March 26)

Today, we take long tail boat to Krabi, and then minibus to Kao Lak, north of Phuket. We stay at the Poseidon Bungalows, which runs a three day, two night live-aboard snorkel trip to the Similan Islands.

Southern Thailand Map: Krabi to Kao Lak

In the morning, we took a longtail boat to Krabi

arrving at our hotel in Kao Lak

the hotel is located at a conjuction where fresh water and salt ocean

our bungalow is in the forest

Thailand – Bangkok 2

Bangkok Thailand Day 37 (March-7)

Today we venture into the suburbs to visit Joceyln’s house and see her little one, Apple. At 1.5 years, her little one is not so little. She is shy, and looks at Kevin like he is from another planet.

I’m SO excited to see my niece, Apple, for the first time

making face with my cousin Jocelyn

Han family blood line: Vana, Jocelyn, Apple, and my Aunt (my dad’s sister & Jocelyn’s mom)

Apple looks at Kevin like he is from another planet

She is super shy

We enjoy a Thai massage in the afternoon, near Joceyln’s house. Thai massage is pain city in the beginning. I wish I stretched out before. The end is good with some back cracking, and a head massage.

CLICK HERE to see picture with Jocelyn family.

Bangkok Thailand Day 38 (March-8)

In the morning we visit the Chatuchak Weekend market. As described as “the mother of all markets”, we were not that impressed. Kevin bought some beach wear, and Vana finally found some long pants in super light weight, for visiting temples (visitor must cover knees and shoulders). Vana: actually, the market is huge, we just don’t have the time and patient to even walk around 1/5 of it. You can spend 3 days in the market. They sell everything from pet squirrel to cloths to food to furniture, the list goes on.

baby pet squirrel, poor guy

clothing section

Food market

For lunch we meet up with Joanna whom we met in Bali a month ago. Joanna was an executive chef in San Francisco before she decided to quit and spend few months traveling in South East Asia like us. She is staying near our hotel, and is flying back to reality in SF this week. Vana and Joanna spend the afternoon shopping, while KR hits the afternoon nap, out of the heat.

We love to hang with Joanna, she’s totally cool.

We had lunch together, then hit Khao San Road for some serious shopping.

Actually, Kevin didn’t know that we went to the bar instead. J/K, we went to the bar after we went shopping of course.

In the evening, we taxi to Rachadamnoen Boxing Stadium to attend a Muay Thai Boxing event. Although, not boxing fans, we really enjoy it. Apparently, there are boxing matches every night in Bangkok, at a few different locations. The stadium we visit is small, but offers ring side, second class, and third class tickets. We buy the second class, which works out great because we can see more footwork from the elevated view.

Each match is five rounds and has a distinctive and highly entertaining rhythm. The boxers come into the ring with their headbands, and some eerie traditional Thai music starts. The boxers slowly circle the ring in some kind of ritualistic dance; bowing, blessing each corner, and stretching.

After a break to their corners, the first bell rings out, and the eerie traditional music starts again, providing the soundtrack for battle. The first round is almost like a back and forth slow dance, with opponents exchanging rapid kicks, and punches; sizing each other’s skill. I spot a few locals dozing off in the stands.

The second round turns up the heat, and if it looks like a close match, the crowd goes into a furry of betting activity. Hand signals fly back and forth, and a pack gathers in ring side below the railing of second class, with intense discussions laying down bets. I point it out to Vana, and someone is instantly at my side to record my beat. I apologize, and join the crowd at the railing, keeping my hands to my side. Vana keeps one eye on the fight, and another on the cockroaches crawling along the corners (Vana: it’s not funny, they are everywhere).

In the third round, the music and fighting increases in tempo, and the crowd calls out with every blow. The betting is now in frenzy, perhaps doubling and tripling down, with odds changing by the minute. Everyone is out of their seats, and space at the railing is now almost full. The graceful dance of the first round is replaced with knees to the chest, and forearm to the head. The standard punch becomes the weakest attack. In one match, repeated elbows to the face produce blood on both opponents, but neither backs down. The match is even, and Vana joins me at the railing, despite the grotesque blood display.

Between the third and fourth rounds, the ring side fans are right behind the coach yelling advice to the opponents, while second class fans are bent over the railing doing the same. In two matches, the fourth or fifth rounds produce a knock out. In two other matches, one opponent knows he’s lost the contest, and backs down. While the opponents walk in a circle to the music, the crowd is settling bets even before the final bell and decision (by three judges) is announced.

The event mixes up opponent weight between the seven matches; light-medium-heavy-light-medium-medium-heavy. The heavy weight boxers in tonight’s event are from Russia and Japan. The crowd shows no preference for light or heavy weights. The competitiveness of the match ignites the crowd, as well as the betting. In a one-sided match, the crowd shows a more casual interest. (It’s just as much fun watching the audience’ reaction vs watching the fight)

the boxers come into the ring with their headbands

blessing each corner

bowing & followed by stretching

break to their corners

audience gets intense

the crowd goes into a furry of betting activity

the ring side fans are right behind the coach yelling advice to the opponents

Japan and Russian match

Kevin and Vana try on gloves, and sport our best boxing poses. We leave the stadium wondering how we became fans so quickly.

bring it on

CLICK HERE to see more Thai Boxing pictures.

Bangkok Thailand Day 39 (March-9)

This morning we visit the Wat Phra Kaew temple and Grand Palace.
Imagine taking a Buddhist temple, trick it out in full with gold leaf, mother of pearl, Chinese porcelain, jade, and mosaics; and then dump Buckingham palace right next to it. Apparently, this is the place for the royal King’s prayer, coordination, birthday celebration, funeral, and so on.

The Thai’s love their King, and every house and business has a picture (just go to any nearby Thai restaurant, you’ll see for yourself). We enjoy the palace grounds in the scorching heat, and busloads of tourists.

hall way with wall painting

wall painting

CLICK HERE to see more Grand Palace pictures.

In the afternoon, Joanna and Vana went to Chinatown.

Joanna really wants to hear me speaking Chinese, so we decided to go to Chinatown

we ended up eating street snacks the entire time we are there

Joanna was making fun of me eating bird nest (btw, Joanna, I won’t eat it anymore after went to Ko Phi Phi and see how they make it)

Good times

For dinner, we meet Johanna for pizza on her last night before returning to San Francisco. For the evening entertainment, we’ve been putting off the last thing on the list; Bangkok a Go-Go. Johanna is kind of against, but is down to join us. I suggest we sample the atmosphere, but don’t throw any money in the system (sex industry).

Joanna’s goodbye dinner – PIZZA! PIZZA!

We taxi to Patpong, which is the touristy part of Bangkok’s Red-light night life. Patpong has a night market down the main street, with street shopping in the middle, and Go-Go bars on each side. Touts offer all tourists ping pong shows, by displaying the performance program; shoot banana, smoke cigarette, etc. I’ve heard the show is amazing; but maybe next time. Johanna really wants to take a picture of the program and offers $0.50; they want $2.50. She is very surprised when they let us walk on the $0.50 offer. On our circle back, they settle for $0.50.

Go-Go bar called – Pussy Collection

sex show menu

We need to pee and stop in a Mexican bar. Vana asks if they have real guacamole. The bar tender brings out a bag of avocados, so we decide to try. Later he brings out the chips, but says they are out of guacamole. Vana starts to flip out, but the bar tender has the goods behind his back. It was a little watery, but the flavor was not bad.

guacamole and chips in Bangkok

Besides the seediness, we notice that the market prices have gone through the roof. My sunglasses busted, and I need a new pair pretty bad. I bargain from $30 down to $3.75. Vana and a vendor exchange foul language when Johanna is looking at a fake LV bag. The vendor doesn’t like Vana’s comments about the bag being fake leather (Vana: I hate that experience).

Patpong night market

Arriving back to the Khao San road area, we really appreciate how cool and friendly everyone is in this area of town.